My passion for surfing runs deep in my veins because jumping into the ocean is my quickest way to connect with nature and my deeper self.
This humbling sport is constantly teaching me life lessons.
The Illusion of Control
There will be plenty of days that you are dying to get out there, but the weather has other plans for you. Rather than responding with frustration, realize that these are part of the ebbs and flows of life and remind yourself of how grateful you will be the next time your ideal day will be cut out for ya.
You Will Get Knocked Down
No matter how much experience you have and how hard you have worked to get to where you are today, there will be days where you go out there, mess up, and feel like a total kook. Rather than getting upset and worried what those around you perceive, give thanks to these humble reminders that constant perfection is impossible.
Always Have Fun
While chasing your passions, you’ll find that others along the same journey are attempting to get there through aggression and competitiveness that gets in the way of others. Once you stop having fun pursuing what you’re after (or practicing your sport), you’re taking so much potential joy out of your life and those around you. Stay present, forgive the ways of the ocean, and lift up those around you by letting them take advantage of a few of the opportunities you see.
If you Don’t go After it, Someone Else Will
We’ve all had that feeling of regret when we see a wave roll through, chicken out, and see the guy next to ya have the most fun ride of the day. Have the courage to believe that these things coming your way are meant for ya, and enjoy the feeling when you have the confidence to capture them and ride them out.
Opportunities Are Abundant
It’s easy to become bummed out when you miss the best wave of the set, and dwell on it for the minutes to follow. Rather than staying in this negative energy (and attracting more of it) stay present, because more opportunities are on their way in mere minutes when the next set rolls through.